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The Pre-Smoking Method: page 5
Pre-smoking
Intro
This step is not done by most tanners. From what we have read and from
some Native Americans we have talked to it seems it is an old method. Our
smoker is built of four pieces of plywood with a top and a hinged door at
the bottom of the front. We use a pot with a metal cover that has holes
poked in it to allow air inside. It is quicker to sew the hide into a sort
of sleeve and do them individually but we do so many hides, that it is not
time effective for us.
How to do it
We found that the darker the hide is smoked, the easier it is to soften in the last step. Therefore we smoke several hides for two days to get them a nice yellow color. Joe says the best wood to smoke with is cedar. We use old juniper fence posts, cut into wafers with a bit of sawdust around them. If you can't get either of these, then any punky wood would work. Keep the fire smothered so it is cool and not a hot fire. It is possible to cook the hide in the smoker especially if it is hot outside.
There are many ways to build a smoker and most of
them work just fine. We suspend the hides in a horizontal fashion, from
ties at opposite corners of the smoker. The first hide is about three feet
from the smoke pot and then about every foot and a half to the top.
How Pre-smoking Works
The best way we can figure to explain why the pre-smoking works, is to
reason it with the fact that the tops of worn out hide tipis were used to make
clothing, and were known to soften up readily when wet. The same thing
occurs when the hide is pre-smoked and the smoke goes into the fibers of
the pre-stretched hide, thus the necessity to pre-stretch well. The better
the pre-stretching, the deeper the smoke is absorbed into the hide and
coats the fibers, the easier the hide softens up. Also, by using the
pre-smoke method, you are required to work the hide less during the
softening process, a hide can be overworked resulting in a stiffer feeling
hide.
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