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Lewis and Clark & Company brain
tanned hides along the trail, much like home tanners do today. Brain
tanned buckskin was vastly more durable than homespun and was commonly
used throughout the frontier from the late 1600's through the late
1800's. Some modern writers have questioned how much white
frontiersman really wore buckskin, tanned it themselves or tailored
their own clothes --- the argument being that that is a later
romanticization and that frontiersmen mostly wore cloth clothing they
bought from traders. The frequent diary entries of Lewis & Clark's men
tanning hides and making clothes from them clearly refutes this:
July
29, 1805 - Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS
…the
men have been busily engaged all day in drising [dressing] skins and
making them into various garments all are leather dressers and taylors.
'Dressing'
was (and is) a commonly used term for applying oily mixtures to hides
and softening them, and the term that Lewis & Clark most often used.
The following quote shows that they were dressing the hides with
brains, or soap when they ran out of brains:
January 23, 1806 -- At
Fort Clatsop -- CLARK
The men of the garrison are Still busily employed in dressing Elk
Skins for cloathing, they fine great dificuelty for the want of
branes; we have not Soap to Supply the deficiency, nor can we
precure ashes to make the lye;
Members
of the expedition worked on skins throughout the expedition, but
especially during the winter at Fort Clatsop. Brain tan is extremely
durable in every use except for moccasin soles, which wear out
relatively quickly. Frontiersmen and Indians alike carried extra
pairs whenever they traveled:
March 12 1806 –
At Fort Clatsop – CLARK
…Our party are now
furnished with 358 par of Mockersons exclusive of a good portion of
Dressed leather, they are also previded with shirts overalls capes of
dressed Elk skins for the homeward journey.
Here
are the rest of the tanning and clothing specific quotes that we were
able to find in their journals:
September 27, 1804 – Lewis and Clark Journals – CLARK
Capt.
Lewis and Some of the party went over to See the Indians Camps
their lodges are 80 in nomber and contain about 10 Souls Each, the
most of them women and children. The women are employed dressing
buffaloe hides for to make themselves cloathing and to make their
lodges &c.
1805
– Snake and Columbia Rivers - ??
…on my
return found Great numb. Of the nativs with Capt. Lewis, men all
employ[e]d in dressing ther skins mending their clothes and putting
their arms in the best order the latter being always a matter of
attention with us.
1805
– Great Falls to Three Forks - LEWIS
…I
therefore informed the men of my intention, and they put their deer
skins in the water in order to prepare them for dressing tomorrow.
1805
- Whitehouse’s Journal– Joseph Whitehouse
…The
natives are light Complectioned decent looking people the most of
them well cloathed with Mt. Sheep and other Skins. They have
buffalow Robes leather lodges to live in, but have no meat at this
time.
April 7, 1805 – Mandan to Yellowstone – LEWIS
…Capt.
Clark myself the two Interpretters and the woman and child sleep in
a tent fo dressed skins, this tent is in the Indian stile, formed of
a number of dressed Buffaloe skins sewed together with sinues. It
is cut in such a manner that when foalded double it forms the
quarter of a circle, and is left open at one side here it may be
attatched or loosened at pleasure (2u) by strings which are
sewed to its sided for the purpose.
May
13, 1805 – Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS
…Capt.
C. who was on shore the grater part of the day killed several deer
and some Elk pricipally for the benefit of theier skins which aree
necessary to themn for cloathinf, the Elk skins I now begin to
reserve for making the leather boat at the falls.
June
5, 1805 – Whitehouse’s Journal – Joseph Whitehouse
…I
Stayed in Camp dressing Skins for to make myself moccasons &c.
June
6, 1805 – Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS
…I
regretted much being obliged to leave my Elk’s skins. Which I wnted
to assist in forming my leather boat; those we had prepared at Fort
Mandan being in such a manner that they would not answer.
June
7, 1805 – Lewis and Clark Journals – CLARK
…Cap.
Lewis & party did not return this evening. The party has been
employed dressing Skins &c.
June
8, 1805 – Whitehouse’s Journal – Joseph Whitehouse
Chapter
VIII. From Maria’s River to the Great Falls of the Missouri.
…the
men in Camp generally employed Dressing Skins &c.
July
6, 1805 – Whitehouse’s Journal - Joseph Whitehouse
…Some
men employed finishing off the Iron boat other dressing Skins &c.
July
6, 1805 – Whitehouse’s Journal
… 2
hunters set out across the river this morning to attempt to kill 1
or 2 Elk for their Zskins. ... I am employed making leather cloaths
for the party &c.
July
28, 1805 – Whitehouse’s Journal - Joseph Whitehouse
Chapter
XI – From the Three Forks of the Missouri to the Beaver’s Head.
…the
men at camp has employed themselves this day in dressing Skins, to
make cloathing for themselves. I am employed making the chief part
of the cloathing for the party.
July
28, 1805 – Three Forks to Beaver’s Head – CLARK
…Several deer killed to day men all employed dressing Skins for
Clothes & Mockersons, two men went up the East fork & reports that
it is nearly the size of the N. fork, verry rapid & has maney
Islands.
July
29, 1805 - Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS
…the
men have been busily engaged all day in drising [dressing] skins and
making them into various garments all are leather dressers and
taylors.
August 11, 1805 – Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS
…I
instantly supposed that Cruzatte had shot me in mistake for an Elk
as I was dressed in brown leather and he cannot see very well.
August 19, 1805 - CLARK
…all
hands employed in dressing Skins & Sorting the Indian goods &
packing up the baggage.
August 20, 1805 – Whitehouse’s Journal – Joesph Whitehouse
…the
men at camp employed dressing Skins &c. the 2 Indians who Stay at
Camp behave well their womaen mend & make our moccasons.
August 21, 1805 - Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS
Chapter
XVI – Searching for Navigable Waters
…The
mockersons of both sexes are usually the same and are made of deer
Elk or buffaloe skin dresssed without the hair. Sometimes in the
winter they make them of buffaloe skin dressed with the hair on and
turn the hair inwards as the Mandans Minetares and most of the
nations do who inhabit the buffaloe country.
September 23, 1805 – Lewis and Clark Journals
…these
natives live well are verry kind and well dressed in mountain Sheep
& deer & Elk skins well dressed, they have buffaloe robes but are
verry choice of them.
November,12 1805 – Lewis and Clark Journals - ??
…our
party has been wet for 8 days and is truly disagreeable, their robes
& leather clothes are rotten from being continually wet, and they
are not in a situation to restore them.
November, 15, 1805 – Descending the Columbia – LEWIS
..an if
we have cold weather before we can kill & Dress Skins for clothing
the bulk of the party will Suffer verry much.
November, 25 1805 – At Fort Clatsop – CLARK
…The
Elk being an animal much larger than Deer, easier to Kill, & better
meat (in the Winter when pore) and Skins better for the clothes of
our party:
November 30, 1805 – At Fort Clatsop – CLARK
…& the
men all employed dressing their skins,…
December 1, 1805 - Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS
…many
of the men are engaged in dressing leather to cloath themselves,
their leather cloaths soon become rotton as they are much exposed to
the water and frequently wet.
December 1, 1805 - Lewis and Clark Journals – CLARK
…my
hunters returned without any thing saw 2 gang of Elk a
disagreeable situation, men all employed in mending their leather
clothes, socks & and Dressing some Leather.
December 2, 1805 – At Fort Clatsop – CLARK
…My
hunters returned withour an thin having Seen 2 parcels of elk men
all employed to day in mending their leather Clothes, Shoes, & and
Dressing leather.
January 9, 1806 - Lewis and Clark Journals – Lewis
…Our
men are now very much engaged in dressing Elk and Deer skins for
mockersons and cloathing.
January 18, 1806 – At Fort Clatsop – CLARK
…the
men are much engaged dressing skins in order to cloath themselves
and prepare for our homeward journey.
January 23, 1806
-- At Fort Clatsop -- CLARK
The men of the garrison are Still busily employed in dressing Elk
Skins for cloathing, they fine great dificuelty for the want of
branes; we have not Soap to Supply the deficiency, nor can we
precure ashes to make the lye;
February 23, 1806 – Lewis and Clark Journals – CLARK
…the
men have provided themselves verry amply with mockersons & lesther
cloathing, much more so indeed than they have ever been since they
have been on the voyage.
March 12 1806 – At Fort Clatsop – CLARK
…Our
party are now furnished with 358 par of Mockersons exclusive of a
good portion of Dressed leather, they are also previded with shirts
overalls capoes of dressed Elk skins for the homeward journey.
March 30, 1806 – Lewis and Clark Journals - CLARK
…instead of the tissue of bark worn by the women below, they ware a
kind of leather breech clout as before described as worn by the
womin at the enterance of Lewis’s river. The width of a common
pocket Handkerchief or something smaller and longer. The two corners
of this at one of the the narrow ends are confined in front just
about the hips; the other side is then brought between their legs,
compresssed into a narrow folding bundle is drawn between their
legs, compressed into a narrow folding bundle is drawn tight, and
the corners a little spred in front tucked at the ends over and
around the part first confined about the waist. A small roab which
does not reach the waist is their usial and only garment commonly
worn besides this just mentioned. When the weather is a little worm
the roab is thrown aside, and the latter truss or breachclout
consistutes the whole of their apparreal. This is a much more
indisant article than the tissue of bark, and bearly covers the mons
venus, to which it is drawn so close that the whole Shape is plainly
perseived.
April 3, 1806 – The Start for Home – CLARK
…I
observe some of the men amoung them who wear a girdle around the
waist between which and the body in front they confine a small skin
of the mink or polecat which in some measure conceals the parts of
generation. They also frequently wear a cap formed of the skin of
the deer’s head with the ears left on it, they\have collars of
leather wrought with porcupine quills…
July
15, 1806 – Lewis and Clark Journals – CLARK
…the
men employed in drying meat, dressing deerskins and preparing for
the reception of the canoes.
August 8, 1806 – Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS
…the
men with me have not had leasure since we left the Wests of the
Rocky mountains to dress any skins or make themselves cloaths and
most of them are therefore extreemly bare…the men busied themselves
in dressing skins and making themselves cloaths.
August 9, 1806 – Lewis’s Exploration – LEWIS
…the
men were all engaged dressing skins and making themselves cloathes
except R. & J. Fields whom I sent this morning over the river with
orders to proceed to the entrance of the White river in surch of
Capt. Clark.
August 29, 1806 – Lewis and Clark Journals – CLARK
…the
skins of the party which they had been dressing since yesterday
being now completely dressed I derected all loose baggage to be put
on board the canoes and at 10 A.M. set out and proceeded on passed
the White river at 12 oClock and halted below the enterance of
Shannons Creek…
September 7, 1806 – Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS (Pelecan
Island a little above the Petite River de Seenoux.)
…several of the party exchanged leather for linen Shirts and beaver
for corse hats.
October 17, 1806 – Lewis and Clark Journals - ?? (speaking of
the tribes of the main Columbia river)
… Their
garments consists of a short shirt of leather and a roabe of the
Skins of Deer or the antilope, but fiew of them ware Shirts all have
Short robes.
November 29, 1806 – Lewis and Clark Journals – CLARK
…all
the others engaged drying their leather before the fire and
prepareing it for use – they having but fiew other Species of
Clothing to ware at this time.
August 22, ???? – Lewis and Clark Journals – CLARK
…the
men at camp employed dressing their Deer Skins & making their
mockasons &c. I am employed making up their leather shirts &
overalls.
May
10, ???? – Lewis and Clark Journals – LEWIS
…The
Chief had a large conic lodge of leather erected for our reception
and a parsel of wook collected and laid at the door after which he
invited Capt. C. and myself to make that lodge our home while we
remained with him.
1806
- …speaking of the “Chyennes”
Their
women are homely, corse feetured wide mouths they ware simpially a
leather habit made in a plain form of two pieces of equal length and
equal weadth, which is sewn together with sinues from the tail to
about half way from the hip to the arm…those dresses usially fall as
low as mid leg, they are frequently ornemented with beeds and shells
& Elk tuskes of which all Indians are very fond of.
August 21 - Lewis and Clark Journals - ???
…these
leggings are made of the skins of the antelope and the chemise
usually of those of the large deer Bighorn and the smallest elk.
…They
[Sioux] live in in tents of dressed leather, which they transport by
means of horses and dogs, and ramble from place to place during the
greater part of the year.
Lewis:
River and Creeks (Platte river, Missouri)
…and
the savages sometimes descend in small leather canoes made of a
Buffaloe’s skin.
Extract
from letter to editors of the baltimore Federal Gazette,
regarding the returning explorers, under date of St. Louis, September 23, 1806:
…They
have the appearanced of Robinson Crusoes – dressed entirely in
buckskins.
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